FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Chariya
over paya
Prerna
reproduces an article published in Bombay Times on Saturday
the 24th of November 2001, wherein T.V and Theatre personality
Kunal Vijaykar gorges on some Sindhi fare and wonders why
many restaurants are not run by these shrewd businessmen.
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He's
the rich friend. Invariably self-employed.
A characteristic feature is that he has only one eyebrow. Of course,
that one eyebrow stretches from his left temple all the way to his
right and his eyelashes are long enough to give Sridevi a complex.
He is the Sindhi. He is probably a member of the Radio Club if he
lives in Colaba, or the NSCl. If he lives further down. I have a
few theories which you are free to explore. I believe the members
of the Radio Club contribute to 60 per cent of the hair-dye consumed
in the country, and 70 per cent of the wigs, not produced for Amrish
Purl. It is not rare to see an impeccably dressed in white, wrinkled
90- year-old with jet black hair. Another theory is that while acclaimed,
that there may be little transparency in the Sindhi's dealings their
ladies adhere to great transparency in the dressing. Eighty-year-old
well endowed ladies in tissue thin sarees, even thinner and shorter
blouses and home spun brassieres parade without a care in the world.
And my final theory is that there definitely must be genetic connection
between the Sindhis and the Italians. Ruddy structure, thick facial
hair, dark eyes, and Armani is so close to Advani and Giovanni to
Gidvani. But l have to stop being rude. They are a society without
their own homeland, ravaged by the consequences of partition. And
yet the distinctiveness that marks them is unmistakable - their
language, their sense of community, their business sagacity and
of course, their food.
Slndhis
use a lot of onion and tomato making it the base of very nearly
all Sindhi dishes. I have often gorged at oI' friend Vikram Thadhani's
home and Prem (Bond) Chabria's mother probably runs the most mouthwatering
kitchen on Mount Pleasant Road. ft was Bond's friend Rohit who pointed
me in the direction of a fabulous Sindhi food joint Kailash Parbat
is probably the only Sindhi place I know, but eating pani purl for
lunch and dinner (however good) is not my idea of a meal.
The
place is named Sobhraj Narumal Mamtani Eating House. I discovered
a whole new side to Chembur. On the Golf Course Road, what is commonly
known as "Camp", and right next to the well-known sweet
meat mart Jhama's, is this small shack like structure. Tin roof,
on the street. A few tables, raw brain, kapoora, kaleji
laid on a kaddappa plafform, and three big handis. The
menu is as generic as possible. Plainly it says, Mutton, Brain,
Kapoora, Paya, Eggs. No fancy names to dishes. One handi contains
Mutton. It was delicious. I couldn't quite figure out the taste.
Large chunks of mutton, with big nallis and bones. The gravy
had a sort of sand like consistency which gave it a thickness that
compliments the oil. I attribute it to unevenly ground red chilIy
(I may be wrong). With bread or parathas this was the most enticing,
unusual mutton preparation I have ever tasted. The other handi
contained the most delectable paya soup. I avoid the paya, cause
bone without flesh is not my thing. Skip the kebabs, and
go straight for the brain or the kapoora. Chopped and mixed
with tomato, onion and sauted heavily on a big tava. The eggs come
in a similar masala like that of the mutton. Once done, the neighboring
shop serves the most gooey and flaming orange jalebis, piping
hot from a huge cauldron. Don't miss.
I now wonder. If the Sindhi Cuisine offers such a large variety
of delicious cuisine, why aren't there too many Sindhi Restaurants.
Being the best businessmen around maybe there is a lesson to learn.
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