Prerna - Be Inspired
The Community Communiqué

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Chariya over paya

Prerna reproduces an article published in Bombay Times on Saturday the 24th of November 2001, wherein T.V and Theatre personality Kunal Vijaykar gorges on some Sindhi fare and wonders why many restaurants are not run by these shrewd businessmen.

He's the rich friend. Invariably self-employed.
A characteristic feature is that he has only one eyebrow. Of course, that one eyebrow stretches from his left temple all the way to his right and his eyelashes are long enough to give Sridevi a complex. He is the Sindhi. He is probably a member of the Radio Club if he lives in Colaba, or the NSCl. If he lives further down. I have a few theories which you are free to explore. I believe the members of the Radio Club contribute to 60 per cent of the hair-dye consumed in the country, and 70 per cent of the wigs, not produced for Amrish Purl. It is not rare to see an impeccably dressed in white, wrinkled 90- year-old with jet black hair. Another theory is that while acclaimed, that there may be little transparency in the Sindhi's dealings their ladies adhere to great transparency in the dressing. Eighty-year-old well endowed ladies in tissue thin sarees, even thinner and shorter blouses and home spun brassieres parade without a care in the world. And my final theory is that there definitely must be genetic connection between the Sindhis and the Italians. Ruddy structure, thick facial hair, dark eyes, and Armani is so close to Advani and Giovanni to Gidvani. But l have to stop being rude. They are a society without their own homeland, ravaged by the consequences of partition. And yet the distinctiveness that marks them is unmistakable - their language, their sense of community, their business sagacity and of course, their food.

Slndhis use a lot of onion and tomato making it the base of very nearly all Sindhi dishes. I have often gorged at oI' friend Vikram Thadhani's home and Prem (Bond) Chabria's mother probably runs the most mouthwatering kitchen on Mount Pleasant Road. ft was Bond's friend Rohit who pointed me in the direction of a fabulous Sindhi food joint Kailash Parbat is probably the only Sindhi place I know, but eating pani purl for lunch and dinner (however good) is not my idea of a meal.

The place is named Sobhraj Narumal Mamtani Eating House. I discovered a whole new side to Chembur. On the Golf Course Road, what is commonly known as "Camp", and right next to the well-known sweet meat mart Jhama's, is this small shack like structure. Tin roof, on the street. A few tables, raw brain, kapoora, kaleji laid on a kaddappa plafform, and three big handis. The menu is as generic as possible. Plainly it says, Mutton, Brain, Kapoora, Paya, Eggs. No fancy names to dishes. One handi contains Mutton. It was delicious. I couldn't quite figure out the taste. Large chunks of mutton, with big nallis and bones. The gravy had a sort of sand like consistency which gave it a thickness that compliments the oil. I attribute it to unevenly ground red chilIy (I may be wrong). With bread or parathas this was the most enticing, unusual mutton preparation I have ever tasted. The other handi contained the most delectable paya soup. I avoid the paya, cause bone without flesh is not my thing. Skip the kebabs, and go straight for the brain or the kapoora. Chopped and mixed with tomato, onion and sauted heavily on a big tava. The eggs come in a similar masala like that of the mutton. Once done, the neighboring shop serves the most gooey and flaming orange jalebis, piping hot from a huge cauldron. Don't miss.

I now wonder. If the Sindhi Cuisine offers such a large variety of delicious cuisine, why aren't there too many Sindhi Restaurants. Being the best businessmen around maybe there is a lesson to learn.